Friday, March 25, 2011

The Trinity: Not just for Sunday morning

The Trinity. Not the holy one, and not a college. You'll hear Cajuns talk about adding the Trinity to their roux (see previous post) as the next step of making staple dishes, such as gumbo. But what the heck are they talking about?

Simply, the Trinity of Cajun cooking is onion, bell pepper, and celery. What's funny to me is that I always add garlic to these ingredients. So what does that make it? A quartet?

Typical Trinity:
1 onion
1/2 green bell pepper
2-3 celery stalks

And I also add about 2-3 cloves of garlic. All ingredients should be finely chopped. This is the time to break out your food processor (or whopper-chopper as my mom calls it). I usually do this in batches. Chop the onion and garlic together, then place in a bowl. Chop bell pepper and celery, and then add to the same bowl. Now your trinity + garlic will be ready to use when the recipe calls for it.

TIME SAVING TIP:

For the busy person, the trinity + garlic can be chopped ahead of time. No early than the night before. I typically do prep work for dinner during my toddler's afternoon nap. Keep chopped veggies in an airtight container in the fridge. Then once your roux is the perfect color, you're ready to add the trinity right away.

Friday, March 18, 2011

First you have to make a roux.

As any good Cajun will tell you, most recipes begin with a proper roux. It adds depth of flavor and thinkens the sauce. And it's pretty simple: fat and flour. Traditional French cooking often uses clarified butter as the form of fat. That's way too fancy for the Cajun. We are back woods and down the bayou people. Clarified butter? Really?

Personally, my roux will always be vegetable/canola oil and plain old basic all purpose flour. This is how my mama taught me how to make a roux.

Disclaimer:
If you have ever read a true Cajun cookbook (and I mean the church cookbooks, Junior League, etc.), you will understand how we share recipes. Often there is no precise measurements or instructions. I will do the best I can to overcome this, but I fear that I unfortunately still carry this trait.

First you need a flat bottomed pot. I find this will give you the most even cooking for the roux. It's also a bonus if you have a large enough one that you can keep adding more ingredients for your recipe without changing cookware.

Basically a roux is 1/2 fat (vegetable/canola oil) and 1/2 flour. Here is where the precise measurements for me end, because this is how I was taught. It all depends on how much roux you want to make. Let's just say 3/4 cup of oil to 3/4 cup of flour if you need a measurement.
Otherwise:

Over medium heat, cover the bottom of your pot with oil. Cover, not coat. Add a little depth to your oil (1/8 of an inch or so). Add flour, one tablespoon at a time. Mix each tablespoon into the oil completely with a wooden spoon (I have one spoon I only use for roux - a long handle for big pots and darkened from use). Continue to add flour until the spoon can be dragged along the bottom of the pot and leave a brief line before the mixture comes together again.

Now here is the tedious part. Continue to cook the roux. For gumbo, you want a nice dark roux, about the color of an old penny. It takes about 1/2 hour to acheive this. Cocktail time! Might as well have a little nip while you stir.

The roux needs to be stirred often and MUST not be left alone. Once you burn a roux, you won't do it again. Most importantly are the final stages when it really begins to brown, because the potential to burn is high...so STIR, STIR, STIR!!

Once you have achieved your target roux color, you can proceed with the recipe of your choice.

Thus is the basic guideline for most Cajun cuisine. Discussion on the next fundamental of Cajun cooking to follow: The Trinity.